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PROFESSIONAL NOTE: To achieve the best results from your interior paint project, utilise the primer and base coat with good quality paint, brushes, rollers and application tools. You will be astonished how your interior paint project will be effortless in helping you to employ a thicker, more uniform coat of paint for a better-looking, longer-lasting paint job. Gather Materials and Supplies: Ladder Plastic water bucket Gloves Rags TSP (optional for cleaning oil and Grime) liquid soap Screwdriver Drop cloths (plastic and cloth) or sheets Blue painter’s tape (with and without paper attached) Old paintbrushes or china bristle brushes for dusting Spackling compound 5-in-1 tool or wide blade Latex caulk 220-grit sandpaper Latex primer Latex paint, eggshell or satin sheen Plastic 2 gallon Paint Bucket Paint tray, paint roller and 3/8″ roller cover 2″ – 3″ Quality nylon/polyester brush Paint Basics Acrylic Paint? Latex paints are not all the same. Now the term “latex” includes all water-based paints. High-performance interior paints are 100% acrylic; they have better color retention, better adhesion and, in the case of faux finishing the better choice for an undercoat than vinyl-acrylics. Not to mention, makers consider 100% acrylics to be their best products. Which Paint for this room? How will the room be used? In functional, high traffic rooms such as kitchens, bathrooms and bedrooms, you want durability and easy maintenance first. In more ornamental and romantic rooms, such as living rooms, master bedrooms and dining rooms, aspect is often the key factor. In a child’s room, safety is critical.” Here is Final counsel on paint quality. When you buy paint, go for the reputable brands. Suit your selections to the project, but at the same time, “don’t waste your time” or your cash on low-quality paint. There are significant deviations amidst cheap and quality paints, in particular in characteristics such as hiding and wash ability. Obviously, one-coat hiding is a major labor saver and well worth paying a premium to get the results. Be sure not to forget to check the warrantee on the label–this gives you a reasonable measure of the divergences amidst quality levels of respective paints. Last but not least, you are also likely to find a wider assortment in color selections with your quality paint lines. Estimating PAINT COVERAGE How do you determine the amount of paint you will need for a queer room? A flat surface ordinarily requires one gallon for each 400 square feet (the product label will show the coverage). Take into account the number of coats you will need to do the occupation right and this depends on the color and the quality of the paint. Remember, it’s always a good idea to have a little leftover paint for future touch-ups. Follow these steps in order, and don’t skip any of them. Wait until the primary coat dries before resolving Steps To in a professional manner Painted Walls: CLEAR THE ROOM STEP ONE: When transforming the walls in your home, start out by removing any furniture or impediments from the room. Cover the floors and any remaining furnishings in the middle of the room, cover with drop cloths or plastic sheets. Next remove outlet covers, nails, and screws. Tape the screws to the outlet cover and store in separately marked plastic bags, for easy re-installation. Then tape over the outlets and light switches to prevent paint from getting on electric outlets and switches. FIX THE WALL IMPERFECTIONS STEP TWO: Scrape off flaking paint, repair holes and cracks with spackle with a wide blade or five-in-one tool. Feather back rough paint edges by sanding. Always fill the imperfection flush with the surface even if it means having to refill 2-3 times due to shrinkage. It is much more comfortable to refill than to sand back too much spackling. After the spackle dries, finish by lightly sanding with a medium (220 grit sandpaper), dust off surface and then prime each repaired area with little roller. Re-caulk any spaces you find where countertops, baseboards and moldings meet the wall. NOTE: Use protective face mask while sanding. NOTE: If you are repainting a shiny surface, be sure to sand it so that the new paint will cohere better. CLEAN THE ROOM STEP THREE: Use an old paintbrush or china bristle brush to dust baseboards, trim and crown molding before taping them off (use painter’s tape to protect the baseboards and moldings). Remove all dust from surfaces using a soft cloth or use a soft bristle broom to brush down new plasterboard. Paint doesn’t stick to dirty walls so clean them with soap and water (or TSP and water), then rinse with clean water, altering water regularly. NOTE: Wear rubber gloves, protective costume and protective eye-wear. TAPING STEP FOUR: Use low adhesive blue painters to tape trim around ceiling, baseboards, windows and door frames. (If you do not have ceiling trim or crown molding, you will have to use safe release tape on bare ceiling). Tape over phone jacks, thermostats, and moldings. Remove tape without delay after painting, before the wall dries, so you don’t peel off any paint with it. PRIMING THE WALLS STEP FIVE: If your walls are bare sheetrock or antecedently wallpapered surface, then you must use the commended primer for that type of surface. Existing semi-gloss or gloss paints must be lightly sanded to a duller finish, and then proper primer for that surface. If the walls have not been painted in five years or longer a primer sealer will have to likewise be applied. NOTE: Always work in areas from the top to bottom. Paint Ceiling first, then walls, then the trim or moldings. Always brush the edges (cutting in) primary prior to rolling. When cutting in make sure you feather out the edges. NOTE: When you commence get started from a corner left to right, or right to left, according to the most comfortable starting point for you. With a pole attached to the end of the Roller, begin from the center of the surface and roll the paint from the center towards the top and bottom of the wall. Roll the wall much like you would vacuum carpet, this will give you the smoothest wall. To keep away from a patchy wall finish, make sure you finish the finish coat before walking away to refrain from a patchy finish. BASE COAT THE WALLS CUTTING IN TECHNIQUE STEP SIX: Thoroughly stir your paint with a stir stick. Then, pour the paint into a more prominent 2-gallon bucket for having little impact handling. Make sure you pour no higher than 1/3 full in your new paint container. With a 2″ wide (or angle) brush, load by dipping 1/3 of the bristle length into the paint. You may remove excess paint from the brush by tapping the bristles versus the inside of the bucket. Starting from the top corner of the wall, cut in approximately 3 inches around the top of the wall where the wall meets the ceiling and cut in the bottom of the wall where the wall meets the baseboard. Cut in the corners of the wall and around all window and door trim while always working from the non- paint area to the antecedently painted areas, smooth out the cut in by lightly brushing the tip of the bristles (tipping off) over the newly painted area, creating a feathered edge. Repeat steps until the perimeter of the walls are complete. ROLLING THE WALL: STEP SEVEN: You have the choice of pouring the paint into a paint tray or a 5-gallon bucket. Place an suitable nap roller onto a roller frame. Attach an extension pole onto the roller frame. Dip roller cover exclusively into paint covering the entire nap area. When using a 5-gallon bucket, pour no higher than 1/3 full and use a bucket grid to offload the excess paint and to evenly disseminate the paint onto the roller. When using a paint tray, offload the excess paint by rolling onto the ribbed section of the paint tray Starting at the top corner of the wall, place the evenly loaded roller approximately 3-4″ away from the cut in area. Working in a 3′ x 3′ area, roll a “W” onto the wall. Continue rolling from the top edge of the wall to the bottom cut in area. Back roll through the finished area prior to reloading the roller, creating a smooth uniform finish. Reload the roller as necessary. Continue applying the paint, each time starting with the “W” technique 3-4″ away from the last section completed. Working from the top division of the wall and working down the wall. Always, back roll the width of the roller being applied into the last section completed. Continue until your wall is totally covered. NOTE: Paint the trim last. When the walls are exclusively dry, paint or touch up the moldings, the door and window frames with a two-inch angled brush. FINISHED DEAR? CLEAN UP AFTER PAINTING 1. Carefully remove all tape from hinges, doorknobs, light switches, and trim. 2. Remove drop cloth coverings from floors, furniture and light fixtures. NOTE: It is best to score taped areas where the tape meets the painted surface with a utility knife, to aid prevent peeling when the tape is removed. NOTE: Cloth Drop cloths must be taken outside to remove dust and debris, then folded and stored for future use. Place all disposable coverings and loose debris into the suitable trash can. 3. Re-attach all switch plates, and outlet covers. 4. Vacuum, mop or clean the floor where coverings were removed. 5. Re-hang items to the wall such as pictures and mirrors. 6. Move furniture and rug back to it is introductory position. 7. Replace all valuables that were got rid of from tabletops and cabinets. DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PAINT SHEEN The divergence amid paint sheens. What’s in a name? Once you choose color for your paint project, you have one more decision to make: the paint sheen! The names are: flat, eggshell, pearl, satin, semi-gloss and gloss. What does this all mean? The paint sheen refers to the gloss level or the degree of light reflected from the surface once the paint has dried. Each company has slight variations. It is evident to tell the divergence among a flat and a high-gloss, but it’s the levels in between, when and how we use each sheen that may get mixing up to all of us. So, here we have listed the key components in choosing a paint finish. The glossier a finish, the more lasting and washable it have a tendancy to be. Flat paint is outstanding at hiding irregularities and surface imperfections. Pearl and eggshell paints are a compromise; they partially hide imperfections and are more washable than flat paints. For painting interiors, the best selections are often times flat paint for ceilings, eggshell and satin for walls and semi-gloss or gloss on doors and trim. The most general paint sheen is satin, a good choice because it’s not too shiny but cleans posing no difficulty than flat and a perfective base for frequent faux finishing techniques. FLAT Durability of Flat Paint: If you have children or pets, this paint sheen isn’t the best choice for walls as it have a tendancy to show dirt and scuff marks easily. This sheen is not an easy paint to keep clean. Where to Use Flat Paint: are great choice for areas with dents, dings and rough surface texture. This sheen is perfective for surfaces that do not have a lot of contact with humane hands, such as ceilings. Comments on Flat Paint: Although this sheen hides surface imperfections, stain remotion is difficult. Use this sheen for a uniform, non-reflecting appearance. EGGSHELL Durability of Eggshell Paint: More lasting and washable than most flat paints, but not as lasting as Satin or Semi-gloss. Comments on Eggshell Paint: This sheen resists stains better than flat paint and gives a more lustrous aspect supplying a soft glow that warms up any room SATIN Durability of Satin Paint: are lasting sufficient to stand up to most dirt, cleaning and are outstanding for high traffic or feed preparation areas. Where to Use Satin Paint: are specifically used for kitchens, bathrooms, hallways, kids’ rooms and even a heap of woodwork and trim. Comments on Satin Paint: are not veritably “shiny,” but more like actual satin, in having subtle reflective qualities. This sheen adds just sufficient light to the walls to be called a slight “glow”. Satin or semi-gloss finishes are easy to clean and are good for highlighting architectural details. SEMI – GLOSS Durability Of Semi-Gloss Paint: tend to be much more lasting as they may be effortlessly cleaned with most cleaning productions and protest dirt and stains. Where to Use Semi-Gloss Paint: are distinctively employed for doors, cabinets, woodwork and trim. Many persons find Semi-Gloss to be too shiny for walls altho it works rather well on surfaces that are prone to get a lot of handprints Comments on Semi-Gloss Paint: A semi-gloss reflects amidst 35 to 50 percent of the light that hits it. Which means it will have a much shinier appearance. HIGH – GLOSS Durability of High-Gloss Paint: While the high sheen allows for an easy surface to clean, any dents or dings in the paint will be very visible. Where to Use High Gloss Paint: take extra precautions in choosing where you use this sheen. High Gloss will have to be fixed to areas such as kitchen cabinets, banisters and railings, trim, furniture, door jambs, window sills and distinguishing trait uses. You wouldn’t distinctively paint a wall with high-gloss paint because the reflective calibers give rise to too much glare. Comments on High Gloss Paint: High-Gloss reflects approximately 75%-80% of the light that hits it. |
